From the pioneers of gender neutral fashion to the new voices changing the games. Genderless fashion means “for everyone” allowing people to go beyond the imposed norms of society. This is a very modern way of thinking but it’s been years since some designers have been overturning the concept of gender in their creative minds. Here are five fashion show looks which really left the mark.
John Galliano
1 Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2019
John Galliano, the “enfant terrible” of haute couture, created his first completely unisex collection. Going beyond the social norms, breaking the codes has always been one of Galliano’s great qualities, but with this collection he took a huge step forward towards genderless fashion.
An androgynous universe made of transparencies, heels, skinny printed trousers and mini dresses has once again manifested itself. As well as all the garments being for both for men and women, so their components migrated on the body. A trouser became a cape and a coat changed into a short.
Alessandro Michele
2 Gucci Spring/Summer 2016
Alessandro Michele has been considered the master of genderless fashion since his debut as Gucci creative director in 2015. Due to his incredible genius, Michele brought a completely different culture to the brand, sweeping away the masculine sexiness symbolic of the brand during the previous two decades. Romanticism and drama are his vision’s keywords and this is also portrayed by the line up featuring delicate long-haired male models. Floral prints, lace shirts, chiffon ribbons and flamboyant blouses made this collection really impressive especially for the ambiguity pulsating throughout.
Rick Owens
3 Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2015
Since his 2002 NYFW debut, Rick Owens aesthetic have always demonstrated a certain gender fluidity, regardless of the sex of the model. But, it was in 2015 that he really surprised everyone with his menswear collection “Sphinx”. And yes, it was somewhat enigmatic. The outfits were worn upside down, or back to front, leaving little to the imagination.
The designer created garments similar to tunics completely rearranged so what would be a collar, or a sleeve formed a hole near each model’s nether regions. The end result was a perfectly successful encounter-clash between feminine and masculine.
J. W Anderson
4 JW Anderson Fall/Winter 2013
When it comes to J. W. Anderson, one can always expect a certain level of subversion of stereotypes, especially when they relate to gender. With his second menswear collection, named “Mathematics of Love”, Anderson’s aim was to be provocative. And he did it very well. Never before, men dressed in stiffer shaped skirts and shorts walked the runways. Similarly, knee-high boots with a frill around the calf were used to complete the outfit, making it even more feminine.
Rey Kawakubo
5 Comme des Garçons, Spring/Summer 1995
Fashion free from norms rhymes with Rey Kawakubo. The Japanese designer can, in fact, be considered as the pioneer of a kind of fashion were the traditional appearance of femininity is demolished. The brand name, Comme des Garçons, which translates to “like boys”, finds its perfect transposition on the 1995 collection called “Transcending gender”. The models projected wide shouldered tuxedos, clean and regular cuts in contrast with a touch of red on the lips.
“Spiritually, there are no more differences between men and women,” Kawakubo said post-show. “What is important is being human.”
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